Veracruz Mexio

Left Mexico City for Veracruz, took the Ado GL bus it is the deluxe one for $400 pesos (only $40 pesos more than the regular bus) the ride took about 5 1/2 hours. No food which kind of sucked, ETN and Primera gave me some kind of sandwich and cookies/nuts.

Had a bit of an issue with a cab driver in Veracruz, told him I wanted to go to the Hotel Amparo which I had found on the Internet before I left Mexico City. He tried taking me to another hotel, one that he no doubt gets kick backs from far away from the central zone and $200 pesos a night more. A battle of wills began, I wasn't getting out or paying him and he didn't want to take me to where I wanted to go... I won he finally gave up after 10 minutes of us sitting in front of the hotel.

The hotel Amparo was listed in my footprint guide as a good place to stay. They were right, a single room with no TV cost me $150 pesos a night (if you want the TV $180 pesos). It is right in the historic zone a few blocks from the zocalo and the malecon. You can pretty much walk to anywhere you want to go. There are a ton of similar hotels in the area so if they are full there are other choices. The bathroom is hillarious, the bathroom is the shower. Brings back the days of the family trailer.

I have spent most of the time walking around checking out the sites. There is free live music all over the place in this town, you can't go down a street without running into a band. There are free shows pretty much every night in the zocalo as well. Last night there was a band in every square, a bit of sensory overload when you got to the place where they merged into one. I like Latin music but 2 different bands at once is a little too much of a good thing.

You may have noticed that while in Mexico City I didn't mention any clubs, that is because I was being good and stayed out of them. Well that lasted until last night when I found a metal bar down the street with live music and all you can drink beer for $60 pesos (yup that's just under $6.00 mi amigos) and it is 1/2 a block from the hotel..

Veracruz is a beautiful place, I took a boat ride around the harbour today at a cost of $75 pesos for a 45 minute tour. Things here are much cheaper than the other places I have been. The road side stand food is $8 pesos a taco the beer is cheap and the tours are cheap. This is a big tourist destination but mostly for Mexicans so the pricing reflects it. They have several beaches in town (a bus ride away from where I am) but due to the heavy shipping traffic in the harbour they are kinda polluted. If you take a 6km bus ride down the road there is a beach called Boca Del Rio. I however did not make it there, it is very hot here and baking on a beach was not something I wanted to do when it was that far from where I am staying. I only like to stay out for an hour or so now and then I've had enough. In the next couple of weeks they are having their carnival, too bad I won't be here apparently it is a great week long party. My Spanish is improving a bit the front desk folks at the hotel think it's funny that I can actually ask for my room key without having to use my pocket English to Spanish book, which has come in very handy here.

I have found a great coffee place called El Grand Café de la Parroquia they are famous in Mexico for their coffee they have one called Lechero. You get a shot of coffee in a glass delivered to the table and then another guy comes by with a metal tea kettle filled with hot milk and dumps it in. It is very tasty. A great place to people watch as it is across from the Malecon, they have patio seating and they have live music courtesy of the band that sets up on the corner of the street. They have been in business since 1808.

Next stop heading out on the night bus tonight to Palenque but I will be staying just outside the ruins in El Panchan. Seems you can get a cabana in the jungle for $80.00 to $100.00 pesos a night, no electricity but there is an Internet cafe in the main compound. Bus from Veracruz to Villahermosa $400.00 pesos and just over 6 hours. Bus from Villahermosa to Palenque $106 pesos and about 2 hours. Should be there by 9am ish.

Cruise Ship That Came In - The World - Privately Owned Residences On The Sea. Cool Way To Live incase you want to run away from home and sign up here is a link to The World Web Site

Hotel Room

Street Bands - These Folks can dance..

Mexico City - The Adventure Continues

Yesterday I went to the Frida Kahlo museum where she and Diego lived. I took the metro / subway from the Zocalo there at a cost 2 pesos (that's 20 cents folks) if you check the map it is a long way I started on the number 2 line Zocalo and I got off at the Viveros station on the Number 3 line . The subway was very easy to navigate and there are maps in each station. The trip involved changing trains 3 times each way and it was very easy even for people like me with no sense of direction. I only messed up twice and both were easy fixes. There are many signs pointing the way to the other platforms. In one of the stations they have unearthed some Aztec ruins which are displayed. The trains are great and so are the people (all 1.4 million of them who were on the same time as I was) as far as I could tell I was the only non Mexican on any of the trains I took but folks didn't seem to mind got lots of smiles and nods and a few seat offers. Vendors who sell bootlegged CD's get on at every station, they have backpacks on that have speakers inside and they play (very loudly) samples of the songs from the CD's which cost $10 pesos, lots of people buying. When we pulled up to a station the vendors turned it off and looked around for the police so I'm assuming they are not suppose to be doing it.

It is a bit of a walk from the subway station to the Frida house it takes about 20 minutes. The cost to enter the museum is $55 pesos and no pictures are allowed (except in the court yard area). I did get lost several times trying to get there, ahh if only I had some sense of direction, so it took me over an hour to find it even with my handy map. It was well worth the trip lots of cool stuff, the house has been preserved pretty much as it was left when Frida died. Lots of photographs of them together so a different perspective.

In the park by the Palacio Bella De Artes I found the Museo Mural Diego Rivera that has a mural by Diego Rivera that was originally on the wall of the Hotel Prado which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1985. They also have a part of one on display that did not survive, the picture didn't turn out very well do to bad lighting but you can see bits of it. The back of it is totally charred from the fire after the quake The cost to get in is $15 pesos an extra 5 pesos if you want to take pictures. No Flash allowed.

If you are in Mexico City there is a museum for just about everything so no matter what your tastes may be you can find it.

I did run into a protest on my travels today not really sure what it is about, something about saving lives. They took up the entire street, a little bit of a surprise but as they had police escorts I figured it was safe.

Life at the hostel is great, we had some live music the other night a 3 piece band. I have met a ton of people here. The sisters from Argentina, my rasta roomie from Spain, and the one from Germany (I think, we nod & smile a lot), the women from Denmark, the guy from Columbia, a bunch more from Argentina this seems to be a popular place, the couple from Victoria, some Brits and some Aussies. A great mix of very nice people. The staff here at Moneda have been great very helpful.. And best of all there is lots of hot water and great water pressure. While on the subject of people a shameless plug for my Web Site a free International People search site Lost Trekkers

All in all Mexico City has exceeded my expectations and I highly recommend that you put it on your travel list. They have the cleanest streets I have ever seen, everywhere there are city workers sweeping day and night. You can't even see a smoke butt anywhere. I will not miss the organ grinders, horrible music and they want you to pay for it. Like nails on a chalk board.

Next stop Veracruz on the Carri bean tomorrow.. Now I am off for one last stop at the bakery.

Aztec Ruins In The Subway Station (yup real ones)



Diego Mural That Did Not Survive The Quake



Street That I Live On (National Palace on the right - I'm in the building on the left beside the pink one)



Live Entertainment at Hostel Moneda

View From Deck Of Hostel

Mexico City

I arrived in Mexico City at about 5:30 I thought there were a lot of cabbies in Puerto Vallarta, turns out they got nothing on this place they were swarming.

I followed all of the guide and forum rules and purchased a ticket from the "official" taxi stand. They have set prices based on what zone of the city you are going to. From Terminal Norte to the Zocalo it was $85 pesos. Very cheap considering the amount of time it took to get here and the traffic which was bumper to bumper for the last 20 blocks. Turns out the largest market in Latin America was on the same route we were taking so tons of people and cars out on a Saturday night.

I found a hostel on the Internet before I left Patzcuaro, Hostel Moneda it is located 1/2 a block off the Zocalo (Calle Moneda #8) it faces the side of the National Palace. They offer free breakfast & dinner as well as Internet and WI FI. Can't beat the price for $205 pesos a night for a 4 bunk dorm and as it turns out I have it to myself so far. I went out for a short walk after dinner last night, you can't beet the location of this place and there is a 7-11 right next door so I can get my junk food fix.

Sunday I went in to full on tourist mode, I am now cultured LOL.. Sundays in Mexico City is environmental day, they encourage everyone to ride bikes, roller blade etc.. They close off the main streets leading to the Zocalo and the Zocalo which is the biggest traffic circle I have ever seen to cars, it was pretty cool to see so many people out on wheels. Most of the museums are free on Sunday's so I did my best to cover as many as I could. First up was Palacio De Bella Artes, they have some Diego Rivera murals and an exhibit by Navarro. I did manage to get a couple of pictures of the main gallery including the Diego murals but most of it is off limits to photography. The building itself is a work of art, I can't believe the architecture and history here, being from Canada we don't have anything older than a couple of hundred years old so something built in the 16th century is not something we see. The market is right beside the museum so I took a quick tour through while I was there, it is huge and they were just setting up when I went through so I am going back tonight to get the full effect.

Next up the National Palace, wow they lived good back then. The President doesn't live there now and what isn't open to tourist is used for government offices. Very high security here, they have army dudes everywhere and you have to show ID and go through a metal detector to get in, you have to go through one on the way out as well as putting your bag through an x-ray scan. Good thing I changed my mind on taking those little souvenir nick knacks from 1842 that I was eyeing :-) The size of the place in incredible and they have Diego murals everywhere as well. The presidential living quarters have been left intact and you can go through them, they are roped off but you can get close enough to see. I really wish I knew Spanish on this one there were lots of signs explaining what things were but alas I could not read them, I did take a stab at the constitution but other than a couple of words I was pretty much lost. You can take pictures here but no flash allowed

On to the Cathedral, according to the tourist info the largest and oldest one in the Americas. No expense was spared on this place there is gold everywhere and 5 story ceilings. It must have taken a lot of donations to build this, as well as the main altar there are corridors down each side with more altars off them, I counted 10 and all very elaborate. It is still used for services so lots going on today and parts of it you could only go into if you were there to worship. As I would probably burst into flames at the touch of holey water I didn't ever try to fake it to get in. You can take pictures but no flash allowed, it was a little uncomfortable doing so when people are sitting in pews praying and crying so I found someone else taking pictures and followed them around so I wasn't the only tacky tourist.

I made a stop at the square on the corner of Moneda on the way by where there are vendors and there was a native dance show going on. Great costumes those headdresses are something else. Kind of ruined the illusion when I ran into a couple of them carrying cell phones in 7-11 later.

Last stop on the tour was the museum 2 doors down from my hostel, have no idea what the name of it is (there is a sign today it is the Museo De La SHCP) They don't do anything small here this place is also huge with tons of little rooms featuring different artists, all of it was great but in particular there was a sculpture exhibit that was awesome. Mostly modern art. Again no pictures allowed and security in every room to make sure you didn't take any.

Although I wore my comfy runners my feet are letting me know that they are not happy. Wonder is I can find a broke backpacker willing to make some coin by giving me a foot massage.. Think I'll see if I can find one.

Day 2 - I never did find a foot massage.. Ah well maybe tonight.

Included with my Stay at Hostel Moneda is a free walking tour which I opted to take today. It went to a few of the same places I went to yesterday but the guide spoke English so he explained a lot of stuff. So Mexico City is built on top of a lake and Aztec ruins. The city is sinking and most of the buildings are tilting a little. There is some Aztec ruins by the hostel so that is were the tour started.

I also got into the part of the Cathedral that was closed yesterday and got some info on it. They started building it in the 16th century but it was not finished until the 19th century. I guess they had issues with contractors back then too :-) Got some more info on the Diego murals at the Palace De Independence as well, seems he was suppose to do all of the walls on the 1st floor but had a difference of opinion with the government on what to paint so only 1/2 the floor is done. If you look at his paintings he has snuck in government soldiers attacking the people, a swastika and other anti government things. Seems Diego has communist leanings and was a follower of Marx and he has also incorporated that into his paintings, he also put Frida in a few of them.

The tour also included walking around the neighbor hood were our guide Alex gave us tips on restaurants that were open late, 24 hour pharmacies and other local landmarks including the post office which is also a museum. Part of the tour included a stop at a bakery. I happen to love baked goods but I have never imagined anything like this place. They have been in business for over 100 years and it is the biggest bakery I have ever seen. It is called Pasteleria Ideal and you can find it on Centro 16 Septiembre about 4 or 5 blocks down from the Zolaco. They had cakes in there twice as tall as me so I took some pictures, these cakes are on tables but they are only about 2 feet high, the rest is all cake. The entire top floor is dedicated to just cakes. Guess where I'm going tomorrow.

I have to say that this is a beautiful city and the area I am in is very safe. I have been out for walks at night and the streets are full of families out having a good time. Not once I have felt uneasy or uncomfortable. Our tour guide Alex also told us that this area is very safe and not to worry about going out a night.

Palacio De Bella Artes




Diego Murals - National Palace

Living Quarters National Palace

Cathedral

Janitzio Island Mexico

Today we went to a little island off Patzcuaro called Janitzio . In order to get there you need to take a boat, it costs $40 pesos return. While Todd was purchasing ticket I was approached by a very tiny and very old lady of Purepecha decent selling bags of nuts. Nothing unusual there as the place is very popular with the tourists and there are a ton of vendors. I politely declined the offer of nuts and then things got kind of strange. She started talking a mile a minute and kept pointing to my eyes and her eyes, couldn't understand what she was saying as she was using the native dialect and not Spanish (like I would have understood Spanish either) but I got the impression that my eyes were freaking her out. Luckily I got my ticket so off we went, the folks that I am staying with said she may have been a native witch, they had a name for it but I have forgotten what it is. Don't think she put a hex on me but I guess I'll find out.

The boat ride took about 40 minutes and was packed with locals heading over to sell their wares along with musician who played all the way over. All in all a very festive ride. The Island is tiny but very high, the buildings cling to the side of it and look like they may all slide off at any moment. When we docked on the other side a kid of about 10 years old grabbed my arm to "assist" me off the boat and then wanted money LOL Being a complete sucker I gave him a couple of pesos although in hind sight probably not a good idea to encourage that behavior.

After yesterdays horseback ride and lava climbing I was not so sure if I would be able to make it to the top of the Island. There are 6 million stairs all of them crooked and sloped and they wind and twist their way up to the top with very few landings. There are shops lining the route the whole way up most of them on 30 degree angles. The shops are kind of strange, they sell everything from hand made high quality products to booby mugs and soft porn art. A little something for everyone it would seem. There is also a hotel with an Internet cafe which I was rather surprise to find in such a remote location. I did make it to the top of the island where there is a statue of the guy holding his hand up, I did however decline to purchase a ticket to go inside it and climb the other million stairs to get to the top. The walk down was much easier but a little more scary, tuck and roll head and elbows in.

The boat ride back was awesome, we landed on the party boat. The band had 4 members including a drummer and they were very good. Our fellow passengers were totally into partying and they danced the whole way back. The boat has long bench seats down both sides and island seating in the middle. At one point everyone including us joined in on a Congo line that went around the middle island of the boat. Defiantly on of the best boat trips I have ever been on, the party folk ended up hiring the band and taking them with them when they got off.

After that it was off to the town square for a coffee/beer and some people watching. Ran into a guy from Vancouver who just got into town and is driving a Volkswagen van down to Guatemala, it is a very small world. Then off to the bus depot to purchase my ticket to Mexico City at a cost of $310 pesos, the ride is 6 hours so I should get in at around 6pm. Found a great hostel online so I will check it out and see what it's like when I get there. Again my hosts cooked an awesome meal and Cosmo's were involved, I think they may be my new favorite drink. A big thank you to Todd & Shannon for your hospitality I had a great time and appreciate you showing me your neighborhood I can see why you love it here and chose it as your home.

Mexico City here I come. 40 million people in 1 place, crazy I don't think there are that many people in Canada.